This dish always reminds me of my trip in Morocco almost 10 years ago now. I and my friend planned a trip to see our Moroccan teacher and a few pottery places there. It was tiring as we had to negotiate throughout the journey in whatever we did but we had so much more fun.
The sky at night with beautiful and bright stars in Ouarzazate and the whole view during the bus journey between Ouarzazate and Zagora. It was so beautiful when we crossed the high Atlas at sunrise with Arabic music in the background. I could never forget these scenes. (and the tagines we had in 20mins break in a small town between the mountains!)
And the accident on the way back to Marrakech! The front window of our bus got hit with a small pebble from a van accidentally being flicked with its tire and the glass window got broken. I and most of the passengers were asleep and got woken up by the sound. The driver was driving as nothing had happened. After a few miles of driving, he stopped the bus to get his driving area clearer. The local passengers were sitting in their seats watching him. Nobody looked surprised. We got back to the city on the bus with the air mildly circulating all the time. We had a very clear view after that. It was really funny.
We stayed in a local family's house in exchange with the work in a pottery shop and factory in Tamegroute. We woke up really early like 6. But the women were already getting breakfast ready. We had sticky soup almost like salty porridge and then the men left for work. And then we had pancake with some kind of sauce (I don't remember what it was...). When later we joined the men at the shop and the factory they were complaining about women being lazy for having two breakfasts. It was good to know men also feel unfair about something in men-dominating society.
Looking back this experience always makes me feel like travelling again hopefully to some countries in Asia where it's not so civilised and their local traditions is still very obvious... Maybe someday!
Anyway this soup was the first meal when we were in Marrakech.
ハリラスープを作りました。レンズ豆とひよこ豆もたくさん入れて、栄養もばっちりです。そして、思い出すのは10年近く前になるモロッコ旅行です。
年末から年始にかけて2−3週間、女友達とモロッコを廻りました。モロッコへは格安航空の飛んでいなかった当時、旅費を抑えるためにバルセロナから12時間ほどかけてバスで南下していきました。そのバスの乗客のほとんどが、アラビック圏の人々で、バスの中の独特の臭いを今でも思い出します。その長旅だけで、すごく疲れたので、この先どうなるのやら、、、と思ったのですが、モロッコ内の旅行は驚きと新発見の連続で、とても楽しかったのです。
移動の殆どはバスかグランドタクシーと呼ばれる6人乗りの車で、運賃をいちいち交渉しなくてはなりませんでした。しかも10倍くらいの値段から、相場の値段まで下げるのはフランス語もアラビック語も喋れない私たちには至難の業で、結果的に、「値下げして」の意の「ヌコス」（女性に対しては「ヌコスィー」）と「ミンファドラック」(please)は考えずとも反射的に出るほどになりました。（ちなみに、アラビア人はこの交渉のやりとり自体を楽しむので、買い物一つにすごい時間がかかることもあります。モロッコへの旅は時間のゆとりは必要です。）
サハラ砂漠に向かう途中、アトラス山脈をこえた時の景色、タジンの味、夜に見上げた星の大きさはいつまでも忘れる事ができないと思います。また、帰りのバスでは事故が起きたり、タメグル−という小さな陶芸の村で仕事を手伝って民家に泊まったり、ハマムの垢擦りではすごく雑に扱われたり、ヨーロッパとは確実に違う何かを経験した貴重な体験でした。
ともあれ、このハリラスープを作るたびに、この旅を思い出して、できればアジアなんかに旅行に行きたいなー、、、といつも思うわけなのです。
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